Most of the knowledge and skill that are necessary for a successful design career come from education and hands-on training. Trust me on that.
But, reading a book never hurts. Here are my recommendations for aspiring designers:
Technical books. Reviewing a learned skill is never a bad idea, and may help you understand why your pattern maker is pushing really hard to get you to change something that seems insignificant. Hold on to your design-school textbooks. I still refer to my pattern-making textbook almost every time I whip up a new garment.
Books about the history of fashion. If you are studying fashion, you will most likely have a copy of Survey of Historic Costume by Phyllis Tortora and Keith Eubank. Save that book! Designers have long looked to the past for inspiration; sooner or later you probably will, too. Of course, there are many other books about historical attire, and they’re all worth a look, but Survey of Historic Costume is the big one.
Interested in corsetry? You’ll need Corsets and Crinolines by Norah Waugh.
Chic Savages by John Fairchild. What could a magazine publisher know about fashion? Actually, quite a lot. (Note: though Fairchild has been officially retired for years, it’s long been claimed that W columnist Countess Louise J. Esterhazy is in fact Fairchild himself, and I, for one, suspect the rumor is true.) The book is worth reading for Fairchild’s biting humor alone, though his insights are priceless.
The Beautiful People by Marylin Bender. This book is not easy to find, but well worth the trouble. Bender’s scathing 1967 volume dissects the fashionable jet-set at a time when the Youthquake was still at its peak and Betsey Johnson (only 22 at the time) was the latest super-hot designer. A fascinating glimpse into a key moment in fashion history.
Eccentric Glamour by Simon Doonan. As creative director of Barneys, Doonan knows a thing or two about fashion. Eccentric Glamour is in fact a hilarious, irreverent style guide, but Doonan thoughtfully includes a chapter especially for readers who think they might want to start their own fashion company. (By the way, do take special care to read the “Green Gypsy” profile in Chapter 1. Most of your potential clients will NOT want to wear a burlap tabard.)
Diana Vreeland: Bazaar Years by John Esten. Anyone who even thinks she might want to work in fashion needs to know who Diana Vreeland was and why she was so important. This book is a mere 79 pages long, but offers greater insight into her influence than Mrs. Vreeland’s autobiography (much of which was made-up) and has better pictures. Includes several of her best “Why Don’t You…?” lists from Harper’s Bazaar. I could do without the pictures of Diana in furs (or various recommendations involving the pelts of assorted creatures), but overall, the book is worth a glance.
Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster by Dana Thomas. Ms. Thomas, a fashion journalist, explores in detail how luxury fashion has changed – and in most cases not for the better. She recounts the birth of luxury-goods groups, the decline of couture, the widespread decline of quality…and even visits the ugly, awful worlds of counterfeiting and sweatshops. If you only read one book on the business end of fashion, make it this one. (The End of Fashion by Teri Agins and Let Them Eat Cake by Pamela N. Danziger are also worth reading, but Deluxe is by far the best of the three.)
The Rise and Fall of the House of Barneys by Joshua Levine. Cautionary tales lie within the pages of this book. If you are planning on selling your goods wholesale instead of running your own shop (online or offline), you MUST read it. Especially Chapter 8.
Cheap: The High Cost of Discount Culture by Ellen Ruppel Shell. Cheap was published very recently, and thoroughly examines the modern American consumer’s obsession with cheap goods. Not about fashion per se, but potentially helpful when designing for a clientele with varying levels of income. (Actually, everyone should read this book. I’ll review it more thoroughly in a future entry.)
My personal fashion library is much more extensive than this, but these are the “must-reads.” I wouldn’t recommend them if I didn’t consider them crucial.
